The Register

The E-Newsletter of The Mini Register

September 2007

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New Members

We would like to extend a very warm welcome to The Mini Register to:

Pauline and Paul  Hewish, Andover, Hampshire, UK

Pauline's Blue 1991Sprite is called Little Devil which probably reflects the modifications - "Everything you can think of!!  1293cc stage 4 engine, front 4 pot caliper disc brakes, superfin rear brake drums, forza bucket seats and luke harnesses, to name but a few"

"It's taken 18 months of hard work (and a lot of money) to eventually get the Mini on the road. This is my first Mini, and it has been completely rebuilt (in our 1 berth garage!!!) by my other half. Trying desperately to get to drive it now but have had the inevitable problems i.e... electrical problems (no lights at night! :( ) which has been now fixed, and brakes - can anyone help?? Bought 4 pot calipers from Mini Sport, done 750 miles but still air in the system."

I know it’s the obvious, but it is worth mentioning anyway, have you checked that the calipers are on the correct wheels, the bleed nipples should be at the top or else you will get air trapped within the cylinders. I have just been through the same problem with my clutch, turned out to be a connector in the pipe work - it did not leak fluid out but let air in, make sure the copper sealing washers on the calipers are in good condition.

One other trick that I have heard of is to wedge the brake pedal down overnight and then bleed again the following day.

Andrew Butler, Burnley, Lancashire, UK

Andrew does not have a Mini at present, but that is no problem from our point of view, you do not need to own a Mini to be a Mini enthusiast.

Kirsty Houser, Winchester, Hampshire, UK

When Kirsty joined the Mini Register, her Harvest Gold 1974 Mini 1000 called Dot was at a local mini garage having a new rear subframe, doors and gear box. Lets hope is now back on the road Looking forward to getting her back!

James and Iain Geddes and Betty Ouweand, Epping, Essex, UK

It is surprising how often Minis are also family heirlooms, James' 1981 Blue HLE is a good example

"I received my Mini HLE as a gift from my Nanna, Betty, for passing my driving test. She had purchased it when six months old from a friend. My Mini is called "Betty" after my Nanna"

I like James' response to the question about modifications

"None! Why would anybody mess with perfection?"

Oliver  South, Bristol, Avon, UK

Oliver has a Brown 1981 Austin Morris Mini HL Estate

Richard Wignall, Kidderminster, Worcestershire, UK

Richard's Mini HL of 1981 vintage is painted in that yellow colour with the wonderful name of Snap Dagon. He has called it The Racer which reflects that in addition to the list of modifications listed below, it is about to be re-shelled into a bodyshell destined for a Miglia racer

The current modifications are "Balanced crankshaft assembly, stage 2 cylinder head, LCB exhaust manifold and 1.75" Maniflow single box system, MG Metro water heated inlet manifold, K&N air filter, in standard filter box, Spax or Koni fully adjustable competition dampers, adjustable suspension height, camber, (front & rear) adjustable tie rods, full solid front subframe mounting kit, competition poly bushes on rear subframe mountings, & all other mounts & stabilisers. 5Jx10" Mamba alloy wheels with Yokohama or Falken 165/70/10 tyres. 13" Mountney steering wheel & Sparco alloy pedal pads."

"This Mini was first registered in April 1981, it was five years old when I acquired it & had done only 17,000 miles. Although immaculate throughout, it had some deep rooted crankshaft problems, which is when the bottom end of the engine was rebuilt & the crank assembly was balanced. It has now covered 97,000 miles and has been as reliable as you could ever wish any car to be. The rear subframe was replaced at 19 years, & 2 years ago. I fitted a new O/S front wing & A panel, apart from that, the body is original.

"The other matter I was keen to raise with you concerns alloy wheels, recently, my own car developed a slow puncture on the right hand rear tyre, so I decided to investigate it, originally thinking the leak was between tyre & rim. The leak was actually through the rim, so I removed the tyre & discovered the vast amount of corrosion which had occurred beneath the plastic powder coating. I've always had concerns about the effect this coating has on alloys, but it's a wake up call to people who buy second hand alloys with tyres, no matter how good they look, it pays to take the tyres off & check out the inside of the rims, otherwise, like me, they could end up with a potentially dangerous Mini. Luckily, I can get wheels professionally repaired."

Paul Barber & Angela Lee,  Preston, Lancashire, UK

Paul and Angela's Mini is a Black Mini 30 called Reggie. It is in excellent condition and has only done 27,000 miles from new

Ulrika Österblom, Simrishamn, Sweden

Ulrika's 1984  Austin Mini 1000 is called Loppan or "The flee"

"My first Mini Austin 850 was Off White, I loved this little car from the beginning. Last year I found this Mini Austin 1000 it has been driven and used in Treviso, Italy. It is completely without rust and in excellent condition. It has 52500km on the meter. Having the Mini now in Sweden (south) it is my beautiful summer car. In late October the Mini is taken to a nice wintersleep . I am not allowed to drive my Mini during the winter, when the Mini is resting in a barn."

Neville and Louise  Astbury, Moreton, Cheshire, UK

Nev's Mini is a Mini with a purpose, as can be seen from his web site at www.miniroadrunnerralling.co.uk the intention from the beginning was to go rallying.

"I put an advert in the local Loot saying: "WANTED I would like your old mini to restore, must be in reasonable condition". The first advert didn't attract anything... ...but the second did. I went to Runcorn to collect the 1000 cc Mayfair Automatic which had been stood still for a while but eventually started and the wife drove it home. I put it in the garage and started the strip down."

The Mini started as a  1990 Mayfair and the current spec is

"ENGINE Rover 1340, rollertip rockers with double springs, Kent rally camshaft, four pin diff, ultra-light flywheel, competition clutch, KAD qickshift, 1&3/4 SU with K&N filter, performance coil and leads, 4 core radiator, MiniSport turbo oil pump, electronic fuel pump  
BRAKES Goodrich hoses, 7.5 inch disks, minifin rear drums, hydraulic fly off handbrake  
SUSPENSION Hi-Lo's, negative camber bottom arms, negative camber rear subframe brackets, competition bushes, Yokohama tyres  
INTERIOR Cobra Monaco S seats, six point Safety Devices roll cage, Securon six point harnesses, Life Line plumbed in fire extinguisher, Terratrip intercom, Terratrip 303+ computer"

Rabawi and Rahim Rahman, Terengganu,  Malaysia

Rabawi's Mini is another family heirloom, the red 1275GT originally belonged to his father Rahim who handed it over last year. The car is as it left the factory in 1975

David Calvert, Appin, Scotland, UK

1972 must be a significant year for David and his Minis, he has a blue Pick-up from that year as well as a white Mini manufactured in Chile. These models called the ??? had an entirely fibreglass bodyshell

Simon Hall, Barnsley, South Yorkshire, UK

Simon's MINI Cooper left the factory this year in blue with a white roof

Craig Scarborough, Harpenden, Herts, UK

This has got to be the find of the decade - a 40 year old Mini based kit that has never been built. Craig reckons that it might be the last one to be assembled as a car. The Grantura Yak built in Blackpool by the company who made bodyshells for TVR.

"A Life long Mini fan, I'd been looking for a fun car to work on when I saw the Yak on Ebay. I trailered it down from Blackpool, where I bought it off the guy who cleared out the Grantura factory when they shut down. Right now its in a garage waiting for a donor mini to breathe the first life into this oddball"

Michael and Sarah Dunne, Segovia, Spain

Ex-pat Mini and ex-pat Mini enthusiasts. Michael and Sarah took their 1989 Cherry Red Mini 30 called Berty to Spain when they moved, it has a different grill plus a beefier exhaust system - other than that it is standard.

"We bought the Mini when it was 9 years old although we had known it all our life - had some refurb work done on it to tidy up a few rust spots and fitted with a better exhaust system. Longest journey was from Glasgow to Madrid. Just use it once in a while now for fun."

Mick is keen know of any rally heading for the Madrid area, if you can help, please let us know and we will pass on the info

Tony Stetson, Welford on Avon, Warwickshire, UK

Tony inherited his 1988 Mini Red Hot, so far its only modification is the fitting of a servo to the brakes

Joanne Sutton and Robert Hargreaves, Bath, Somerset, UK

Joanne and Robert's 1989 Mini Sky Rose in the original White with a blue roof has 52,000 miles on clock

Glen Bennett, Kurrajong  NSW, Australia

Glen's Mini is a Mkll Cooper S in Conaught Green which is fitted with a 1310 engine complete with LCB, 631 cam and a port polish head.

"Owned the car for about 24 years. Initially used at club level racing, then daily driver, then stored for the last 16 years, waiting for me to retire and perform a full nut and bolt on her. I would like to track the cars history from new, but don't know where to start. I would also like to find an early English 850 as one of these was my first car and I would love to own one at each end of the scale. I used to be in the NSW Mini Car Club many years ago but have lost contact with those in the club. I have just recently had a renewed interest in Mini's. I am over familiar with them being an ex mechanic and owning a fair few over the years. I haven't driven mine, or any Mini for so long, and feel like I need another fix sooner or later."

Kayleigh Maile,  Witham, Essex, UK

Kayleigh has called her red 2000 Mini Cooper Sport, Blobby

Anusha Pathirana, Peradeniya, Sri Lanka

Anusha is our first member from Sri Lanka and owns a 1972 Mini Cooper in Metalic Blue called Coop. The front brakes have been converted to disks, half leather trim has been added to the interior and an electronic control unit added to the wipers. On the outside, a set of wheel arch extensions have been fitted. After graduating from the Open University of Sri Lanka, Anusha is a Technical executive for the Lanka Television Network

Harry Woodthorpe, Welling, Kent, UK

Harry's Mini is a silver 1989 Mayfair and is receiving special attention to the lights. So far it has clear front indicators and Ultra side indicators, he is waiting to get Angel Eye head lights and Ultra rear jewel lights

Naza Din, Kedah, Malaysia

Nazz describes his 1965 MK 1 Mini as "still in good condition, new paint, good looking" and the photos show that to be a pretty good description. The Mini is fitted with a 1.3 engine, air conditioning and alloy sports rims.

Paul and Angela Garett, Surbiton, Surrey, UK

Paul's 1968 Cooper in Snowberry white with a Black roof is called Puffin, the hydrolastic suspension has been replaced with dry and it has 'S' wheel fitted.

"Hi I am a barber, My hobby is Minis I also judge for the company Autoglym in classic concour competitions. I have won their national concours final at the N.E.C. twice, sadly not with a Mini, but I will."

Predrag Bojovic, Zemun, Serbia and Montenegro

Peddrag's 1974 Mini 1275 GT has a distinctive Black and Orange paint job, which extends to the magnesium Cromodora Abarth wheels. It has its original engine but with an extra radiator under the bonnet. The interior has a pair of Porsche seats.

"Well, fell in love with Mini back in 1987 when I was 9 years old and watched Italian Job for the first time. Bought first Mini 1000 when I was 16 even though I didn't have a driving licence. That one is still alive but needs some cash to repair it to original condition. Few years ago, got myself  the GT. It was in very bad condition, driven by some old woman. Did a lot of work on it and I believe its now one of the best Minis in Serbia...one of five GT's in my country..."

Paul Tyreman and Katie Menard, Norwich, Norfolk, UK

Paul and Katie's introduction to the Mini world is a red 1991 Mini Cooper S called Dita.

"Just bought our first Mini in a 1991 Cooper S. And looking forward to learning how to tweak / restore / improve the car for today's modern motoring. But at the same time keep the timelessness of the original car."

Jason Townsend, Halesworth, Suffolk, UK

Jason's red 1992 Mini City runs on Ultralite wheels with a hi-lo kit and G-Maxs shocks. The 1275cc engine has a stage 2 head, K & N air filter, lcb manifold and a Play Mini exhaust system. The rear seats have been removed to make way for a sound system and the front seats are Forza buckets with a set of 3 point belts, and that is just part of the mods 

"I got it when I was 16 and have loved it every day. I had it restored about 4 years ago and have been spending all of my money on it. We joined Lowestoft Mini Club in 2006 and did the 2007 London to Brighton and loved it bring on next year."

Mason Lockyer, Feilding, New Zealand

As a motor mechanic for 16 years and a lover of Minis, it is not surprising that "Browny", Mason's brown 1980 Leyland GT 1275, has a long list of modifications. The 1330cc engine has a compression ration of 11.5, a ported head, JP Pistons, an RE13 cam and Toyota 1.5 rockers. Feeding this is an HIF44 on Mini Spares intake manifold, with the spent gases exiting through a Sanz header into a 2 inch stainless exhaust. The gearbox is from an Aussie GT and has the same ratios as the Cooper S, drive to this is through a paddle clutch.

The suspension has rear camber brackets and 1.5 front bottom arms with adjustable tie rods. The 12x5 Superlites followed the 'box across the Tasman Sea. Inside, the Recaro front seats are from Mitsubishi Lancer Evo1

Mason's first Mini was a 1968 Austin 850

Trevor and Kerstin Hobbs, Barnstaple, Devon, UK

Trevor and Kerstin's shiny red MINI is a 2004 Cooper fitted with black bonnet stripes to match the roof

Lisa  Heath, Reading, Berkshire, UK

Lisa's Mini goes by the name of Mini McMiniman, it is a Tahati Blue Rover Mini Cooper

Tyrone Blundell, Romsey, Hampshire, UK

Tyrone's  Mini is a

"1980 Mini Clubman called Humbug, she is a auto in beige and has just been written off but is getting repaired"

Jack Jewell, Ilminster, Somerset, UK

By coincidence, the next member to join, Jack, also has an automatic, a green 1972 Mk I called "rust bucket" it has been stored for about 8 years and Jack is hoping to put a manual box in it

Ryan and Densil Abbott, East London, Eastern Cape, South Africa

Ryan is getting off to a good motoring start - he has a blue 1966 Mk I Austin Mini called Abbey

"I'm 17, and got my Mini in white, my Mom had an accident which forced us to fix it up. We got it resprayed and chose blue with white GT stripes, I love sound, so I've fitted a 12" subwoofer, two 6x9 speakers two tweeters and side door speakers all with an amp and front loader. Here in South Africa not many places stock parts for a Mini so all customization is done at home, which can be fun or stressful."

So far Ryan has fixed the interior and exhaust and there are some body modifications coming soon

Lance Cumson, Chester, Cheshire, UK

Minis passing from generation to generation seems to be a theme at present and Lance's Speedwell Blue 1960 Austin Seven is another example, it was previously owned by his Dad in the 60s and "stood for donkeys years in a lockup, it still runs and is not even rusty"

Paulo Dionisio, Lisboa, Portugal

This is an addition of The Register for new countries, Paulo is our first member from Portugal, he has a white 1988 Mini Mayfair which has been fitted with a 1.3 engine from an MG Metro

Tony Roach, Widnes, Merseyside, UK

"I am a motoring historian researching police vehicles in the North West (of England). At present I do not have a Mini of my own."

Cara Millar, Prestonans, East Lothian, Scotland

This is a story of ambition fulfilled, Cara has just bought a red 1976 Mini 1000 called Nancy. It is in original condition and Cara intends to keep it this way and only to replace a few worn interior parts.

"I have been looking for a half descent Mini for 7 years. And on my seventh year (lucky number as they say) a friend of mine was reluctantly having to sell her 1976 Austin Leyland Mini 1000. Had first offers and got the car in fab condition and a genuine 31200 miles on the clock. It had been in her family from new with her grandmother buying it, then passing it on to her mum and then to her. Sadly she didn’t have the time and so sold it on to me. The car requires a few cosmetics, new dash, wheel reconditioned and a new interior carpet (original is there but had been taken out at some point and damage has occurred) But apart from that she is in excellent condition. We have decided that since she is going to be a long term family member we are calling her Nancy. I love her to bits."

Phil Gibbs, Abingdon, Oxfordshire, UK

Phil's Targa Red 1986 Mini Chelsea is

"85% original. Still has the seats with the Chelsea logo written on them and on both sides of the car. Engine is still the original engine (complete with the BL labels) she has the original factory alloy wheels. She has a new rear subframe, brakes, clutch assembly, master and slave cylinder, and starter motor and solenoid. All the rest is all original"

Lennard Thornhill, Dubbo, Australia

Lennard's yellow Leyland Mini S is affectionately known as "little devil" 

Members update

Thanks to Chris Lee for photos of the Chadwicks and Bennetts enjoying a run around Lancashire courtesy of the North West Casual Classics

Mark Lewis, Bridlington, East Yorkshire, UK

Paul Lester, Michigan, USA

Ron & Frances Wohler, Lancing, West Sussex, UK

Andrew Wise - Ballarat, Australia

Just thought people might be interested in a red and white themed Mini tribute t-shirt inspired by our red and white 78 Clubman (betty) http://www.redbubble.com/works/show/31602

Johan Kruger - Johannesburg, South Africa

I have a bit of trouble with my newly rebuild engine. The reason for rebuilding it was a small oil leak at the back and I for some reason could not get the gearbox into gear when it was on. I thought it was the clutch so I replaced it and redid the clutch cylinder. But now that the engine is rebuild it still wont go into gear. If you switch off the engine you can get in into gear but when it is switched on it just won`t go into gear. Do you have any idea what might be wrong?

I am having exactly the same problem at present but with my Frogeye, not a Mini. In the Frogeye's case I think it is because I have the wrong clutch spring unit - but that should not be the case with your Mini.

The prime cause of this type of problem is that the clutch plate cannot spin between the flywheel and the pressure plate, this may be because 

a) The clutch plate has stuck to the flywheel
b) When the pedal is pressed, the pressure plate is not pushed away from the clutch plate enough
c) The clutch plate is sticking on the spline of the primary gear
d) The primary gear is not rotating on the crank.

c) and d) can be checked by hand with the flywheel off, the causes of b) can be:

1 - Incorrect adjustment of the clutch release arm - both the small 1/4inch bolt and the stop on the end of the release bearing shaft

2 - Air in the hydraulics or a problem with the master cylinder

3 - Faulty spec on the clutch plate - friction material too thick

I would suggest the following course of action

1. Jack the front of the car up so that the wheels can rotate, put it in gear and start the engine, then press the clutch pedal and apply the brakes, this may have to be done a few times and if the clutch plate has stuck, it should be released. As you have just rebuilt the engine, this is not likely to be the cause of the problem.

2. Wind the large nut on the end of the release bearing shaft right out, attach some form of extension to the release arm and with someone else in the car, pull the lever and see if you can engage gear with the engine running. - if you can, it points at 1 or 2 above.

3. If the clutch still wont release then it looks like the flywheel will have to come off again so that you can check for c and d above.

I hope this helps, I know exactly how frustrating it can be

Jim Biscoe - Ontario, Canada

My car ('64 1071 Austin Cooper S) is really coming along, almost ready to put plates on.

I need to know if any member has a drawing of the RAF sump guard, In the mini book options for the 1071 were

• 4.5 “ wheels
• Vertical oil cooler
• RAF sump  guard

That was it for 1964 Cooper S for factory options

I got to use Kato our MINI Cooper S on the last round of the Knutsford and District grass autotest season. It was great fun and being on a grass surface meant no wear on tyres or transmission. There was another MINi competing, a MINI Cooper S Works of Mike Harrison as well as a range of cars from Duncan Wild's Golf to a Metro. At the end of the evening, I came second behind Duncan and got some of that old autotesting buz again.

Mini for sale

Heather Williams in Abingdon has to part with her Mini Chelsea, it is 85% original and still has the seats with the Chelsea logo written on them along with the Chelsea graphics on both sides of the car. The engine is still the original item (complete with the BL labels) she has the original factory alloy wheels. She has a new rear subframe, brakes, clutch assembly, master and slave cylinder, starter motor and solenoid. All the rest is all original. Let us know if you are interested and we will pass on your details 

 What are the different types of brake fluid?

I have read several readers letters and articles recently about the confusing topic of brake fluid specifically contrasting the ‘traditional’ glycol based fluids and silicone. The four main types of brake fluid now available are DOT3, DOT4, DOT5 and now DOT5.1. First important point DOT5 is Silicone DOT5.1 is glycol based – confused you will be!

DOT3 DOT4 and DOT5.1 are glycol-based fluids, and DOT5 is silicon-based. The main differences are that DOT3-4 and DOT 5.1 absorb water, while DOT5 doesn't and DOT5 does not damage paintwork.

So there you have it water is a bad thing in brake systems and damaged paintwork is not good therefore silicone is a good idea. That seems as far as most of the things I have read have gone. Surely it can’t be that simple; and if it is why do most manufacturers fill their cars with DOT3 or DOT4 from new?

Well it isn’t that simple and on looking further I, as a strictly non expert, began to see the wider picture. Let’s look at what motor manufacturers, engineers and brake fluid manufacturers have to say.

One of the important characteristics of brake fluid is its boiling point. Hydraulic systems rely on an incompressible fluid to transmit force. Liquids are generally incompressible while gases are compressible. If the brake fluid boils (becomes a gas), it will lose most of its ability to transmit force. This may partially or completely disable the brakes. To make matters worse, the only time you are likely to boil your brake fluid is during a period of prolonged braking, such a drive down a mountain -- certainly not the best time for brake failure!

The effects of water

As a DOT3-4 or DOT5.1 brake fluid absorbs water, its boiling point decreases. That’s why manufacturers recommend changes at between one and two yearly intervals.

DOT5 fluid does not absorb water. This means the boiling point will remain relatively stable, but it also means that any water that does get into your brake system will tend to form pure water pockets which will boil at 100C causing vapour pockets additionally these pockets could cause internal brake corrosion. It is for this reason most silicone fluid manufacturers also recommend regular changes, but less frequently.

The effects of moisture on the fluids boiling point is illustrated below.

MINIMAL boiling points for these specifications are as follows:

(*See below for the difference between wet and dry boiling point)

So how does the water get into the system?

Water/moisture can be found in nearly all brake systems. Moisture enters the brake system in several ways. One of the more common ways is from using old or pre-opened fluid. Keep in mind, that brake fluid draws in moisture from the surrounding air. Tightly sealing brake fluid bottles and not storing them for long periods of time will help keep moisture out. When changing or bleeding brake fluid always replace master cylinder caps as soon as possible to prevent moisture from entering into the master cylinder. Condensation, (small moisture droplets) can form in lines and calipers. As caliper and line temperatures heat up and then cool repeatedly, condensation occurs, leaving behind an increase in moisture/water. Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of calipers, lines, master cylinders, etc. When this water reaches 212º F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system.

Diffusion is another way in that water/moisture may enter the system. Diffusion occurs when over time moisture enters through rubber brake hoses. The use of hoses made from EPDM materials (Ethlene-Propylene-Diene-Materials) will reduce the amount of diffusion OR use steel braided brake hose with a non-rubber sleeve (usually Teflon) to greatly reduce the diffusion process.

Spongy brake pedals

To most of us the effect of this water is, at best, a ‘spongy’ brake pedal or, at worst, complete brake failure. But there are other reasons for a ‘spongy’ pedal. Relatively speaking silicone fluids are highly compressible and can give the driver a feeling of a spongy pedal. The higher the brake system temperature the more the compressibility of the fluid and this increases the feeling of a spongy pedal.

DOT3-4 & 5.1 fluids are 2 times less compressible than silicone type fluids, even when heated. Less compressibility of brake fluid will increase pedal feel. Changing fluid on a regular basis will greatly increase the performance of the brake system.

Of course a major cause of the dreaded spongy brake pedal is air in the system and bleeding the system often affects a cure but even here the choice of fluid can make a difference. Silicone fluids tend to hold air as little bubbles and these can be difficult to fully bleed from the system especially if the can being used to replenish the system has been shaken. You are simply introducing more air with the fresh fluid! Several sources recommend that a pressurised bleeding device is used to expel the air from the fluid in the pipework.

What does a change in fluid entail?

So you still want to change? And for a ‘show car’ where the effects on paint may be crucial this is probably the first choice. Are there any other things you should know? Well a major consideration is compatibility

Both DOT3-4, DOT5 and DOT5.1 fluids are compatible with most brake system materials except in the case some silicone rubber external components such as caliper piston boots, which are attacked by silicon fluids and greases. Of course you need to check if you are going to change for your particular vehicle.

Although some manufacturers state silicone is not incompatible with DOT3-4 & 5.1 fluids other sources claim it can lead to corrosion over time. One thing is certain it certainly doesn’t mix with them. (And any DOT3-4 or 5.1 fluid remaining within the system will, of course, continue to absorb moisture.)

In order to gain maximum benefit from using silicone brake fluid the entire hydraulic system should be completely disassembled and cleaned out before any such fluid is added rather than flushing the system with substances other than brake fluid (of any type).

This is primarily because the single most common brake system failure caused by a contaminant is swelling of the rubber components (piston seals etc.) due to the introduction of petroleum based products (motor oil, power steering fluid, mineral oil etc.) A small amount is enough to do major damage. Flushing with mineral spirits is enough to cause a complete system failure in a short time.

If silicone is introduced into an older brake system, the silicone will latch unto the sludge already generated by gradual component deterioration and create a gelatine like goop which will attract more crud and eventually plug up metering orifices or cause pistons to stick. If you have already changed to DOT 5 without thoroughly cleaning the system, don't compound your initial mistake and change back. Silicone is very tenacious stuff and you will never get it all out of your system. Just change the fluid regularly.

Your choice

So there you have it; the choice is yours. But it boils (no pun intended) down to are the possible effects of spillages on paintwork and less frequent fluid changes top of your list of priorities if yes silicone is certainly worth considering.

Some final thoughts culled from all my investigations..

• Passenger cars very rarely will undergo a brake fluid change making the wet boiling point more important.
• Never reuse fluid.
• Never mix types or brands of brake fluid.
• Use smaller fluid containers that can be used quicker.
• If fluid remains in container be sure to tightly seal and do not store for long periods of time.
• Immediately replace master cylinder reservoir cap following any maintenance
• There are many causes of a spongy brake pedal – not all of them obvious

Chris Lee

* The DOT specifications are based on the concept of wet and dry boiling points. The dry boiling point is applicable when fluid is fresh and the wet boiling point after the fluid has been exposed to moisture and has had the opportunity to adsorb water. The minimum values for the wet and dry boiling points are specified for each DOT level, and increase from 3 through 5. Note that these are minimum values, and there is no constraint on by how much a manufacturer may exceed them. To achieve a DOT rating, the fluid must meet both dry and wet boiling point specifications.

 UK Classic car age

The UK government have disappointed classic car owners. In response to a recent petition, on the 10 Downing Street web site, requesting a rolling age for a vehicle qualifying for road tax exemption, the Prime Minister's Office has said no. The response stated that the tax revenue was more important and therefore the cut-off will remain at January 1st 1972 rather than advancing each year as was initially planned.

MINI Workshop - Sunroof rattle

Our 'S' developed an annoying rattle from time to time, it went back to the dealer during warranty to have it fixed but as is usual in these cases was too shy to repeat the trick for the mechanic, needless to say, it did rattle again on the way home.

Purely by accident, we managed to pull down the trim around the sunroof aperture, this is very easy when viewed from above with the sun-roof open as you can see the rectangular tabs that hold the trim in place. Starting at the rear, squeeze these into the centre and the edge of the trim may be lowered

It will still be held at the front by the switch panel part, if the whole trim is slid backwards gently it will come away from the headlining.

The cause of the rattle was the three white plastic fixings which proved to be loose in the metal panel.

There clips engage in the tree slots on the trim panel

C shaped cardboard washers were made and slid between the clips and the metal panel and then the trim panel pushed back into place. So far - touch wood - the rattle has not returned

 MINI Clubman

Despite rumours that the new MINI estate would be called a Countryman, the stretched addition to the model has been launched with the name of MINI Clubman, conjuring up images of the original slab fronted Clubman Estate.

However the only immediately identifiable link between the two cars is the split rear door. Like the original, the Saloon wheelbase has been extended, in the case of the MINI Clubman by 9.5 inches, the additional length has not only increased the legroom by 3.2 inches but also provides 9.1 cubic feet of luggage space which can be extended to 32.6 cubic feet if the rear seats are folded down.

Access to the rear seats has been greatly improved by adding an extra half door to the passenger

The rest of the specification mirrors the saloon, with the three petrol engine options as per the One, Cooper and Cooper S and the 1.4 diesel engine, 6 speed manual and auto boxes will also be available.

 MINI beats Prius

Nicknamed the Toyota Pious thanks to the tendency of Hollywood  celebrities to establish their green credentials by being seen to drive one of these petrol/electric hybrids (presumably to or from the private jet).

The Prius was, for a long time, top of the chart when it came to low carbon footprint but not any longer. The Honda Civic bumped it down to second place and now the MINI has moved it even further down the table as it not only matches the emissions of the Prius but returns lower fuel consumption.

New MINI One Diesel cars will be fitted with some extra techno tweaks that will improve the 64.2 mpg to 72.4 with CO2 emissions to match the Prius at 104 g/km.

This is archived with Brake Energy Regeneration and an auto start-stop mechanism. Brake Energy Regeneration is a fancy name for an intelligent alternator controller that effectively switches the alternator off when the battery is fully charged and by doing so stops it sapping power from the engine. The controller switched the alternator back on when the engine is in overrun during braking.

The auto stop-start function is only available on manual models, this kills the engine when the car is stationary and in neutral. The engine is restarted automatically when the clutch pedal is pressed. Also for manual models, a new "Switch Point Display" shows which gear should be selected to get the optimum fuel efficiency.

Mini in the Puddle

The venue of the Mini in the Park show was switched this year to the drag strip venue of Santa Pod and it was in eager anticipation that we set out with Kato the Cooper S, Vince - Karen's Mini 25 and Charlie - the Chadwick's 1275GT convertible.

We arrived at a sea of mud and to make matters worst, the marshals directed us all around the edge of the very muddy site when a tarmac road ran to within feet of our stand.

We have never had a stand with our own swimming pool before.

Bob Budd was there when we arrived with the lightweight autotest Mini on the trailer, he prudently decided not to risk getting the whole rig stuck in the mud and left it near the site entrance. Having sussed the situation, we were able to direct Duncan Wild along the tarmac leaving just a short run through the mud for his autotesting Freestyle.

Dave Barratt and the Jouberts also joined us for the day and despite the mud, which was caused by this terribly wet summer we all enjoyed the show

There are parts of three Minis in this shot!

The trade stands were up to the usual standard, but the auto jumble was way down on previous years. The concours entrants had their work cut-out for them, not only removing the mud from the trip in but also finding a dry spot to lay out their bits, all credit to them.

The activity that did enjoy the mud was the rally-cross demonstrations which reveled in the conditions, show attendees could also take their own cars around the track.

During the day a number of very quick Minis took to the drag strip, although the fastest tended to have the engine at the rear and that engine was not the trusty A series.

Also running up the track was the Santa Pod jet car which was an amazing spectacle - although not for Dave and Bob who where in the stand behind the start line and could not see beyond the ends of their arms when they switched the smoke on.

 Some cars never left their trailers

Although not a very good start for this new venue, I don't think it would have been much different anywhere else with the amount of rain we have had this year, we have had difficulty getting out of Cornbury Park on much drier days.

 Dark clouds looming

In the UK, changes are afoot for the MOT system. Garages providing the MOT test service have already been required to convert to a computer based facility that uploads the test results to a central database. Garage owners have not only had to fund this investment but have also found that the computerised testing system has reduced the number of cars that can be tested in a day. The consequence of this being that the testing fee has more than doubled.

This I am afraid is just the beginning, garages are now being required to invest in headlight beam testers and brake testers that will link into the test computer as well as a host of additional bureaucratic measures that further increase costs, all of which will be passed on to us.

But all of this will be dwarfed if the proposals to switch to bi-annual MOT tests are implemented. Having been forced to invest large sums in additional equipment, garage owners will have their workload halved. Rumour has it that the garage owners have been told un-officially that they should not be concerned because the test schedule will be increased dramatically along with the fee which in turn will create more rectification work for which the garage can charge.

Another rumour is that owners will have to produce service records when presenting their car, not sure what that means for those of us who service our own cars.

Mk 1 Rear brake valve

In the last edition of The Register, we mentioned that Ron Jernigan and I are looking for replacement rear pressure limiting valves for our '66 S'. Well we have yet to find one - despite a concerted effort at Mini in the Puddle. Paul Le Roy from Johannesburg tells me that a firm in South Africa reconditions these valves. In short the bore is made larger, a stainless sleeve is turned and then pressed in place. If the piston is damaged a new one is turned and new seals fitted.

Freestyle build

At last, the dirty build has finished; as the chassis required a number of changes to make it suitable for its role as an autotest car, the plan has been to fit all the mechanical components as they came off the lightweight Mini, then when all the fabrication and welding is complete, the chassis can be painted and the components reconditioned and re-fitted.

Despite the use of a plywood prototype for the pedal box, when the new steering wheel position was determined, the operation of the pedals was not comfortable. It is most important that all the controls are easy to use; fractions of a second count and the last thing you want is to struggle to get your feet to the pedals in time. So the pedal box was shortened which required a slot cutting in the front bulkhead to accommodate the master cylinders.

The steering wheel was moved higher than standard to make more room for flailing knees, so a substantial extension to the column support was welded in place. A twiddle knob on the wheel will enable single handed operation whilst the left hand copes with the fiddle brakes and gear change.

With the engine at the back, the gear change rod is routed under the gearbox to a standard gear lever unit. The plate on the underside of the gear lever housing includes a ridge that requires the gear lever to be lifted in order to select reverse gear, as there will be many changes between first and reverse during the average test, this plate has been removed to aid rapid changes. The gear lever housing has been mounted at an angle so that the lever falls to hand without obstructing the fiddle brake levers.

All the mechanical components have now been removed again and chassis painted. Hamertite Smoothrite aerosols were used, they have been very effective and will hopefully provide a tough finish. The aluminium floor is 2mm treadplate and this has been glued and pop-rivited to the chassis. Duncan Wild managed to pop the rivets in his Freestyle, indicating that there are considerable torsional forces that the chassis has to cope with, hence the gluing and riveting. Sickens 221 adhesive was used as this appears to have the strongest recommendations and the rivets were set at 40mm intervals.

A chance conversation with Funbuggies owner Dave Smart at Mini in the Park indicated that the fitting of coil-over units at the front requires tmore substantial in-board mountings, so the standard ones will be cut-off and replaced by a beefier unit.

Events

 Sunday, October 7 - 28th Annual San Diego British Car Day & Picnic

Fairbrook Farms, Fallbrook, California, Minis as well as other British cars on display

www.sandiegobritishcarday.org 

That's it, please let us know what is going on in your part of the world.

Keep in touch

Mike Bennett
theregister@miniregister.co.uk

The opinions expressed in The Register are those of the members and not necessarily those of The Mini Register.

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